From a young age, Chef Mingoo Kang had always been interested in cooking. He spent time working as a chef abroad before returning to Korea and founding his restaurant Mingles in 2014; the name was inspired by his desire to bring together Korean and Western culinary traditions. The success of this venture inspired him to dive even deeper into the world of Korean cuisine. It was when he met the Buddhist nun Jeong Kwan that he came to understand the importance of jang, which he calls a “true expression of terroir.” This journey led to the 2024 publication of Jang: The Soul of Korean Cooking, which made The New York Times’ list of the best cookbooks for that year.
Jang are seasonings that start with fermented soybeans, the three most common of which are ganjang (soy sauce), doenjang (soybean paste), and gochujang (red pepper paste). Connoisseurs of Korean food will probably already be familiar with jang, but for most people it may still remain, in the words of Chef Kang, “a near secret ingredient.”
The first quarter of the book functions as an introduction to this secret ingredient. After the story of Chef Kang’s journey of discovery, the next section traces the history of jang over two millennia, including, most recently, the decline of making jang at home during the Japanese colonial period and the current resurgence of artisanal jang. This is followed by a detailed description of the processes by which ganjang, doenjang, and gochujang are made. This section is not about how to make jang at home but about understanding the character of jang by exploring how it comes into being — how simple ingredients are almost magically transformed by nature, time, and human skill and effort. The book then offers some practical information on how to combine dishes to form a meal, and finally Chef Kang lays out a list of pantry items you will need if you want to start cooking Korean food. Most of these are standard fare and will be familiar to the aforementioned connoisseurs of Korean cuisine, but I will admit that gochujang powder came as a pleasant surprise; this might be a favorite new popcorn seasoning.
The bulk of the book, of course, consists of recipes categorized in accordance with t he jang used in each. Separate chapters are devoted to ganjang, doenjang, and gochujang, each finishing with a profile of an artisan producing that type of jang, connecting us not only to the terroir but also to the people. As for the recipes, most aren’t from Mingles; they are dishes that Chef Kang prepares at home for friends and family, and thus they are more approachable and less intimidating. There are recipes that any lover of Korean food will find familiar, such as jangajji (vegetables preserved in ganjang), haemul pajeon (seafood scallion pancake), gangdoenjang bibimbap (mixed rice with a thicker type of doenjang), and the world-famous yangnyeom fried chicken.
But, for this reader at least, it was the recipes that take jang in unexpected directions that were the real eye-openers. The use of ganjang in a ragù sauce or doenjang in a cream sauce for pasta dishes immediately sparked new ideas. Then there were things I never would have considered. Ganjang in granola? Gochujang in a chocolate mousse? Doenjang in crème brûlée? It sounds wild...but why not? This is, I believe, the real meaning of fusion cuisine. It’s not fancy techniques or flashy combinations of ingredients — just an understanding that for all the differences in our various culinary cultures, flavor ultimately knows no borders.